Austria
Journey to Vienna among the places of Johann Strauss son, who popularized the waltz
There are many places you can visit in Vienna to follow in the footsteps of Johann Strauss the son, the great composer who spread the fashion of the waltz throughout Europe, author of the Blue Danube and other successful music. Here is an itinerary to learn more about this extraordinary figure.
By Redazione | 01/12/2024 12:30
Johann Strauss son is one of the most celebrated figures in the history of Western music and a symbol of Viennese art and culture. Born on October 25, 1825, in Vienna, also known as the "Waltz King," this extraordinary composer was able to transform the waltz into an emblem of bourgeois sophistication andVienna's cultural identity. During his lifetime, Strauss composed some 500 dance pieces, 15 operettas, one opera and one ballet, leaving an indelible mark on the European and world musical landscape.
The eldest son of Johann Strauss's father, also a renowned composer and conductor (who, moreover, did not want his "Schani," as people in Vienna amicably refer to someone named Johann, to become a musician himself), Johann son showed extraordinary musical talent from an early age. However, his path was not an easy one: his father, as mentioned, strongly opposed his musical career, trying in every way to dissuade him from following in his footsteps. Nevertheless, young Johann, determined to emerge, made his musical debut at the age of 19, on October 15, 1844, at Dommayer's Casino, despite his father's attempts to prevent him. His performance was enthusiastically received and marked the beginning of a luminous career that would soon surpass his father's own fame.
Strauss son knew how to win the hearts of the Viennese and beyond. Against the backdrop of an Austria in crisis, amid military defeats and economic turmoil, Strauss offered a musical refuge, capable of lifting the spirit and uniting the population in one harmonious rhythm. His most famous waltzes, such as On the Beautiful Blue Danube, Tales of the Vienna Woods and the Kaiserwalzer, became genuine popular anthems, celebrating the beauty and vitality of his native Vienna.
Johann Strauss' success was not limited to the borders of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. His fame quickly spread throughout Europe and beyond, winning over international audiences and turning him into a veritable pop star of the 19th century. In Russia, his face adorned cigarette boxes, and in the United States audiences enthusiastically applauded his compositions. With violin in hand, Strauss performed on the most prestigious stages, accompanied by his brothers Eduard and Josef, who shared his musical talent and passion for dance.
Despite his worldwide success, Strauss's personal life was marked by contradictions and complexities. Married three times, he was deeply dependent on the women in his life, who also often served as his managers and supporters. His mother Anna managed his career in the early years, while his first wife, Jetty Treffz, supported him as an artistic consultant and organizer. His other relationships were often stormy, but his third wife, Adele, became a central figure, caring for his musical legacy even after his death.
Strauss was not only a musical genius but also an eccentric personality. He had a peculiar character, was phobic, hated sunlight and preferred to compose at night, for example, also paradoxically disliked going to cafes, concerts, and theaters, did not dance and refused invitations to dance (he preferred to play billiards), had a mania about physical appearance, could not stand mountains, and hated traveling. He felt at ease during storms, which stimulated his creativity. His fame was not without gossip: he was said to write indecent letters and have secret affairs, but these rumors only increased the aura of mystery around his figure. Despite his popularity, Strauss disliked crowds and rarely attended cafes or theaters, preferring to concentrate on his music.
After a life dedicated to artistic creation, Johann Strauss son died on June 3, 1899, at the age of 73, at his home in Igelgasse 4. He was buried with full honors in Vienna's Zentralfriedhof, alongside such iconic figures as Beethoven, Schubert, and Brahms. His musical legacy, however, lives on. His waltzes remain symbols of Viennese culture and the city's timeless charm. Today, Strauss is celebrated as one of the greatest composers in history, a man whose genius brought joy and beauty to the world, turning every note into an ode to life. And there are several places in Vienna that tell his story. A trip to Vienna can mean an immersion in the life and music of Johann Strauss son. So let's take a look at an itinerary among the most significant places to explore the legendary music of one of the greatest composers of all time(more on that here).
Birthplace: Rofranogasse (today Lerchenfelder Straße 15)
The story of Johann Strauss son begins in the heart of Vienna's 7th district, in what was once Rofranogasse 76 and is now Lerchenfelder Straße 15. Here, on October 25, 1825, the future Waltz King was born, in a modest house that reflected the humble origins of the Strauss family. Although the original building no longer exists, an important historical record remains alive thanks to the bronze memorial plaque unveiled on October 18, 1925, during the centennial celebration of his birth.
This plaque, by Austrian sculptor Gustav Gurschner, depicts a relief portrait of the composer and is a symbol of the city to honor the man who embodied the Viennese spirit. It is exciting to think that from this humble place came the genius capable of enchanting Europe's most prestigious courts and salons. Today, the plaque is easily accessible to visitors, but without a guide or a keen eye, one would risk passing by without noticing this fragment of history hidden in the urban fabric.
A break at Café Sperl
Just a few minutes' walk from Strauss's birthplace, Café Sperl offers a unique atmosphere that seems to take you back in time. Founded in 1880, this historic Viennese café is famous for its Jugendstil style and bohemian charm, making it one of the city's most iconic venues. Frequented by intellectuals, artists and musicians, Café Sperl represents a microcosm of Vienna's cultural life, and its beauty has not gone unnoticed by the movies either: the famous "phone" scene between Ethan Hawke and Julie Delpy in the film Before Sunrise was filmed here.
To enter Café Sperl is to immerse yourself in an atmosphere of yesteryear. The original interior, with dark wood furnishings, period chandeliers and Thonet chairs, creates an ambiance that has remained unchanged for more than a century. Here, visitors can enjoy a Viennese Melange (a kind of cappuccino, with the coffee base, however, longer) accompanied by the "Sperl Breakfast," enjoying the slow pace of a place where time seems to have stood still. The café has also witnessed historical moments related to Strauss's music: it is said that the Vienna Philharmonic played some of his compositions right here, making the connection between this space and the King of Waltz even more magical.
The Naschmarkt and the Theater an der Wien
Continuing into the heart of the city, you come to the Naschmarkt, one of Vienna's liveliest and most iconic markets. This large open-air gourmet market is not only a gourmet's paradise with its stalls of exotic spices, Italian olives, fresh oysters and artisanal cheeses, but it is also a place that invites you to look up. Here are two splendid Jugendstil buildings designed by the famous architect Otto Wagner, whose facades adorn the Linke Wienzeile and offer a unique perspective on late 19th-century Viennese architecture, places that Strauss son surely knew well.
A short walk from the Naschmarkt, the Theater an der Wien represents another key chapter in the story of Johann Strauss son. It was here, in 1874, that the premiere of The Bat(Die Fledermaus), his most famous operetta and a milestone in the history of Viennese musical theater, was staged. The event marked the zenith of Strauss's career as a composer of operettas as well as the Waltz. The performance was enthusiastically received, not only for the quality of the music, but also for its ability to reflect the spirit of Viennese society at the time, mixing humor, satire and unforgettable melodies.
The Musikverein: the temple of Viennese music
Continuing along Vienna's historic streets, we come to the Musikverein, the "temple" of classical music, renowned for its perfect acoustics. This iconic building hosts the annual New Year's Concert of the Vienna Philharmonic, an event watched by millions around the world. The Musikverein is closely linked to the history of Strauss and his family. In January 1870, Johann Strauss, together with his brothers Eduard and Josef, conducted a specially written composition for the Gesellschaft der Musikfreunde in Vienna, marking a historic moment for the Viennese musical tradition.
Besides being the stage for the most prestigious performances, the Musikverein represents an unbreakable bond between Strauss and the city. The Golden Hall is a symbol of Vienna's musical greatness and a place where Strauss's compositions, especially The Beautiful Blue Danube, resonate with renewed emotion each year, recalling the composer's creative genius.
The Stadtpark and the golden statue of Strauss
In the heart of the green Stadtpark, one of Vienna's lungs, lies one of the most famous and photographed statues in the world: the gilded monument of Johann Strauss's son. Created by sculptor Edmund Hellmer in 1921, the statue depicts the composer with his violin, surrounded by an arch decorated with dancing figures. This sculpture has become an icon not only of Vienna, but of music itself, attracting thousands of visitors each year.
The park, with its tree-lined avenues, ponds and benches offers a quiet corner in the Viennese chaos. The Strauss statue is the centerpiece of this space, an eternal tribute to the man who made Vienna the waltz capital of the world. Concerts held near the park, at the Kursalon Hübner, are a unique way to celebrate Strauss's connection to the city, bringing his compositions to life in the very places that inspired him.
The house at Praterstrasse 54: Strauss's museum
One of the most intimate and fascinating places to get to know Johann Strauss son is the apartment-museum located at Praterstraße 54 in Vienna's 2nd district. This house, where Strauss lived with his first wife Jetty Treffz, is now a museum housing numerous memorabilia, original sheet music and musical instruments. One of his absolute masterpieces, The Beautiful Blue Danube, composed largely at night, when the composer found his greatest inspiration, came to life here.
The museum offers a unique opportunity to enter the composer's everyday life, observing his original podium and imagining the nights when he worked tirelessly to create melodies that would make the whole world dance. The quote from Richard Wagner placed at the entrance, calling Strauss "the most brilliant musical skull of the present," testifies to the immense respect the composer earned even among his contemporaries.
The Kursalon Hübner: the stage of the Strauss brothers.
In the heart of the Stadtpark stands the Kursalon Hübner, a splendid Renaissance building built in 1867 as a meeting place for Viennese society of the time. This magnificent concert hall was closely associated with the Strauss family, becoming the place where Johann, together with his brothers Eduard and Josef, performed numerous concerts.
The Kursalon is still a vital center of Viennese musical culture today. During performances, one can imagine Strauss conducting his ensemble, violin in hand, with the audience enraptured by the grace of his waltzes. It was here that many of his iconic compositions came to life, solidifying his status as a key figure in 19th-century music. The Kursalon's location, overlooking the park and the Vienna River, created an ideal atmosphere for an evening of dance and music.
Today, the Kursalon Hübner is a must-see destination for anyone wishing to immerse themselves in the golden age of the Viennese waltz. Classical music concerts, often devoted to Strauss works, are held there regularly, and the venue's charm remains intact thanks to its historic elegance and the quality of the performances. The experience is enhanced by the opportunity to attend balls and galas, combining music with the pleasure of experiencing the atmosphere of Vienna in the time of the Strauss family.
The House of Strauss: an interactive tribute to the musical dynasty
Vienna's 19th district is home to one of the newest attractions dedicated to the Strauss dynasty: the House of Strauss. This interactive museum, located in the historic Casino Zögernitz, was opened to celebrate the greatness of the Strauss family and their contribution to Viennese musical culture. From the moment visitors enter, they are greeted by an environment that combines traditional charm with state-of-the-art technology to tell the story of the family.
The House of Strauss offers a multisensory journey that goes far beyond the classical exhibition. One can explore the lives of Johann Strauss father and son, step onto the podium of a conductor, and even measure one's "waltz pulse." This interactive approach makes the museum suitable for visitors of all ages, offering an educational and engaging experience. One of the most striking spaces is the ballroom, decorated with checkered floors, ceiling frescoes and crystal chandeliers. Here it is possible to relive the atmosphere of 19th-century Viennese evenings when Strauss performed for enchanted audiences. The dedicated app, available in several languages, guides visitors to discover the secrets of the Strauss dynasty, with narratives curated by descendants of the family.
The Zentralfriedhof: the eternal resting place of the King of Waltz
Johann Strauss son Johann Strauss found his eternal rest at Vienna's Zentralfriedhof, one of Europe's largest and most fascinating cemeteries. Located along Simmeringer Hauptstraße, this place is not only a cemetery but a true open-air museum, housing the graves of many great composers, including Beethoven, Schubert, and Brahms. Strauss rests next to them in an honor tomb that celebrates his musical legacy and his contribution to Viennese culture.
His tomb, adorned with symbols reminiscent of the waltz, is a pilgrimage destination for music lovers from all over the world. It is a place of meditation, where one can reflect on the greatness of a man whose genius transformed Vienna into the dance music capital of the world.
The location of the grave in the central cemetery is particularly significant, as Strauss is buried alongside figures who influenced his career and shared his passion for music. To visit the Zentralfriedhof is not only to pay tribute to Strauss, but also to immerse oneself in European musical history in a setting where art and memory are uniquely intertwined.
