For the first time, an Italian museum can boast of being able to welcome its visitors with a restaurant awarded three Michelin stars: this is Milan’s Mudec, which is home to Enrico Bartolini’s restaurant, run by the Tuscan chef, born in 1979, originally from Castelmartini (Pistoia). The inspectors of the Michelin Guide, a reference point of international gastronomy, awarded Enrico Bartolini’s proposal because, the motivation reads, “the chef’s personality stands out for research and experimentation, harmonizing perfectly with the dynamism of Milan and giving an artist’s touch to the rich Italian gastronomic heritage.”
This brings to eleven the number of Italian restaurants awarded three Michelin stars. Alongside Enrico Bartolini’s restaurant at Mudec, the recognition is appanage of “Piazza Duomo” (Alba, Cuneo), “Dal Pescatore” (Canneto sull’Oglio, Mantua), “Da Vittorio” (Brusaporto, Bergamo), “Rosa Alpina” (San Cassiano in Badia, Bolzano), “Le Calandre” (Rubano, Padua), “Osteria Francescana” (Modena), “Enoteca Pinchiorri” (Florence), “Uliassi” (Senigallia, Ancona), “La Pergola” (Rome), “Reale” (Castel di Sangro, L’Aquila). For Enrico Bartolini, this is the eighth Michelin star he has won in his career (the first time he has been awarded three stars). For the city of Milan, the three stars are an accolade that returns a full twenty-six years later: it was 1993 when Gualtiero Marchesi closed the restaurant on Via Bonvesin de la Riva to move to Brescia (moreover, Marchesi, who earned the star in 1985, was the first Italian chef to boast the title, which until then had been awarded only to French professionals).
Bartolini’s restaurant at Mudec is presented as an “opificio di alta gastronomia” that respects “the biodiversity of the territories” and explores “new worlds and new flavors, without ever forgetting origins and traditions.” A few dishes? As appetizers, “anchovies, oysters and caviar,” “blue lobster soup cooked in cedar with green fig,” or “puffs of royal langoustine, foie gras, herbs and finger lime”; among the first courses, “bronze-drawn spaghetti with smoked eel and bay-flavored pin squid,” “rice and milk from Lodi and hare civet,” while among the main courses, “fish dente alla milanese” and “sweetbreads, chicken and savoy cabbage in snail sauce” stand out.
“I feel as if I had won an Olympic gold medal,” comments Enrico Bartolini, “such a result cannot be planned: one has always aspired to it, but one never expects it... and as in sports at the highest level, one must train every day, with effort and sacrifice, without ever losing sight of the overall vision, while respecting a very precise philosophy and ethics. I can only share this wonderful moment with Remo and Mario Capitaneo and Sebastien Ferrara for Milan, and with Donato Ascani in Venice: they have shown great commitment and perseverance. I thank Michelin, and all my team, from Monferrato to Maremma, passing through Bergamo Città Alta, for their passion and work daily, but also our guests who with their stimuli have helped us to improve and grow more and more.”
In the photo: Enrico Bartolini’s restaurant at Mudec.
There's a museum that now has a three-star Michelin restaurant: it's Milan's Mudec |
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